Posted by David Peterson on 25 Oct 2007 as Light, Night, Sharp Images, Tips
A lot of cameras come with an Anti-Blur mode. This is marketed to reduce blur in your photos; particularly when indoors or at twilight. But does it work, and how can it help with your photography?
Does Anti Blur Mode work? Yes it does. It can stop (or limit) blurry photos caused by low light.
Should I purchase a camera with Anti Blur? No. Don’t purchase a camera just because it has an Anti Blur Mode. As I explain below, Anti Blur is actually just a marketing name for a feature that almost all cameras have already!
What causes a Blurry Image?
Blurry Images are one of the biggest problems that can occur with digital cameras. It happens when the camera or the subject moves while the shutter is open.
Normally, your camera’s shutter operates quite fast (less than 1/100 second). That is fast enough to create a sharp image (unless the subject is moving very fast like a race car).
When there isn’t much light around (indoors and twilight are two excellent examples) the shutter needs to stay open for longer so enough light can get into the camera. Depending on the brightness of the light and other factors, the shutter speed can be anywhere from 1/30th of a second to 2 seconds or even longer.
The longer the shutter is open, the more chance your subject will move (causing a blurry subject, like the first image to the right) or the camera will move in your hands (causing the whole image to be blurry, like the second image).
What Is Anti-Blur Mode?
When you enable Anti-Blur mode, your camera makes sure the shutter speed is always fast – above 1/100 second. With this fast shutter speed, blurry photos are much less likely to occur.
But with low light photography, the shutter speed needs to stay open for longer to get enough light into the camera. Without enough light your photo will appear dark, or under exposed. How can the camera ensure enough light gets in while keeping a fast shutter speed?
The ingenious answer lies in what is called the “Holy Trinity” of exposure – Shutter Speed, ISO Value and Aperture. The correct settings combination of these three leads to a correctly exposed image (one that’s not too dark or too light). If you change one value (like decreasing the shutter speed), you need to compensate by changing a second of the three settings otherwise your image will no longer be correctly exposed.
Anti-Blur mode switches this around. When your camera notices it needs to keep the shutter speed high, it also increases the ISO. A higher ISO means less light is needed to correctly expose the shot; so the shutter doesn’t need to be open for as long.
So Anti-blur is just a marketing name for the camera modifying the ISO setting to keep the shutter time short. It’s that simple.
But it raises the question… If it was that simple, why haven’t camera manufacturers added this feature before?
Trouble in Paradise
The problem comes when you look at your photos. The higher the ISO value, the more ‘digital noise’ appears in the image (for a full explanation of noise and how to reduce of eliminate it, check out the noise bonus book that comes free with my Digital Photo Secrets book).
So your image may be blurry-free, but it’s still not a fantastic image because of all the noise.
Fortunately, noise is not as much of a problem as it used to be. Camera technology has improved in recent years and (depending on your camera) ISO speeds as high as 1600 can now take excellent photos. This has allowed the camera makers to add the Anti-Blur feature.
Another way to counter noise is to take photos with a lower resolution (4 megapixels rather than 8 megapixels). So you might find that when you enable the Anti-Blur mode, your photos won’t be as large.
Home Anti-Blur Solutions
What if you have a camera without an Anti-Blur feature?
Fortunately if your camera doesn’t have an Anti-Blur feature, you can still reduce or eliminate blurry photos by making the ISO adjustment yourself.
Just before your take a shot, check the shutter speed your camera is going to use. If it is slower than 1/50 second, increase the ISO value one value (like from 100 to 200, or from 200 to 400) and check the shutter speed again. Keep increasing the ISO until the shutter speed is around 1/100 second.
I recommend you don’t use your camera’s highest ISO setting (usually 1600 or 3200) as this will create too much noise. Instead increase to the second highest setting only.
It also helps to hold your camera steady while taking the photo.
What is Anti-Shake? Is that the same?
No. Anti-Shake technology uses gyroscopes and moving parts to move the camera’s lens as a ‘reaction’ to you slightly moving the camera while holding it. It is useful in helping to reduce blurry photos caused by this method. I recommend using both technologies – Anti-Shake and Anti-Blur.
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54 Responses
Ammad
October 26th, 2007 at 7:27 pm
1wow.. this is wonderful article..
i was argued with my friend.. that olyumpus fe 240 doesnot have any image stablization but.. same what he explained
but he din’t agree .now i can show him this article..
thnx.. for this gr8 article..
Jerry Marano
October 30th, 2007 at 11:01 am
2OK Dave,I keep telling a friend of mine when he shoots pictures of his grandson to use the FLASH,it speeds up the shutter so NO blur.Also I finally had to tell him to step back and use the tele lens so the flash wouldn’t interfere with the pictures brightness…….Jerry
Michael Wickham
October 30th, 2007 at 12:52 pm
3Great Article. Lots of good information.
Jeremy Liu
October 30th, 2007 at 1:33 pm
4Jerry, with regards to your comment, I don’t understand what are you trying to say.
Are you trying to talk about an alternative of increasing to increase the shutter speed?
vijay
October 30th, 2007 at 1:50 pm
5Great article, very informative and clearly explained.
Do you have any article on reducing blur in MACRO mode ?
’cause if i use flash then the image gets over-exposed.
and without flash some images get blurred.
I use a simple point-n-shoot camera , and would like to have
a simple and inexpensive solution to counter this problem.
Ann
October 30th, 2007 at 2:01 pm
6Vijay,
I also have problems in Macro mode, but I think this is related to depth of field, not blur, per se. To increase depth of field and reduce blurring, it is important to have the camera at the lowest possible aperture for the longest possible time. With macro, this seems to require a tripod, most of the time.
Paul
October 30th, 2007 at 3:26 pm
7…wow! you’re a genius. You have great photography skills, and a great ability to teach. I thank you for all the tips i have gotten from you.
Colin B
October 30th, 2007 at 4:38 pm
8This is good!!! We are always hungry for good solid advice to get that perfect shot!!!! Thanks again…
Lawry
October 30th, 2007 at 4:41 pm
9wow i learn something here!
Thank you so much!
mike kirwan
October 30th, 2007 at 6:09 pm
10Thank you for taking the trouble to tell us these facts
Sophie
October 30th, 2007 at 8:49 pm
11Thanks for the helpful information!
I have a question about blurring and low light when taking photos at pop concerts. Even though I sometimes sit in the front row and obviously very close. 9 out of 10 pics I take (on automatic and no flash) come out blurry.
Have you any tips please for taking pics (with the permission of the performers) at pop concerts because I’m going to one on Saturday and would like to take pics because we are allowed and encouraged by the people I’m going to see!
What setting should I put my camera on? A biggish camera I have has an anti-blur mode but the smaller one I usually take in my pockets doesn’t have this facility so I generally leave it on auto with no flash but the group say they don’t mind a flash being used so maybe I should use flash too!
Thanks
Krishnamoorthy
October 30th, 2007 at 9:44 pm
12Just most other articles, this one is also very very useful one Thank you so much for your excellent service to the photographers.
Henry Feddern
October 31st, 2007 at 12:41 am
13This was a very interesting article. I had always used a film SLR, because I felt that the quality of a digital picture was not equal to that of a film picture. However, after seeing some pictures early this year, I decided to go digital. I bought a Canon 30D with a 28-300 mm stabilizer lens, and found that image quality was equal to film, even with the normal digital settings. In reference to the above article, I found that to take close-up pictures with this lens, I had very sharp results with excellent depth-of-field, if I set the lens to the Tv (shutter) mode, set the shutter speed to 200, set the aperture to as small an opening as possible, and then increased the ISO until the camera said that the exposure was proper. I have even used an ISO of 1600 in this situation, in the daylight. (I used an ISO of 1600 to photograph the full moon, hand-held, and have seen no noise in the black background, although there was a little color mottling in the moon’s image when I enlarged the image about 10 times with Photoshop.) I used these settings because the Basic Zone Modes used low ISO settings.
Sheryl McNeel
October 31st, 2007 at 1:09 am
14Thanks for sch great advice and knowlege. Some of my wedding photos have been coming out blurry. So this came right when I needed it. Your the best! Glad you are feeling better!
~Peace
~Sheryl
elvin
October 31st, 2007 at 1:24 am
15thanks another great tips. easy to understand too.
Sophie
since they allow flash .. so use it . it will help to freeze the moment.
Fonteyne
October 31st, 2007 at 3:38 am
16Just ….thank you , pleased you’re back
Reginals L Gilmore
October 31st, 2007 at 5:31 am
17Great to have you back. You’ve taken care of a problem I was having with my anti shake cameras. This is something you don’t recognize until the the correct reasoning comes along. Thanks for being here.
Reginald L Gilmore
October 31st, 2007 at 5:33 am
18Great to see you again.
parijat chandra
October 31st, 2007 at 6:11 am
19Nice job David!!
one more job for you ….. what abt face detection ?? need you feedback. as i am planning to buy suji S9600 or S6500fd i need to know abt this face detection. Any sugession between these 2 models ??
parijat chandra
October 31st, 2007 at 6:13 am
20oops its Fuji not suji…
Istvan
October 31st, 2007 at 6:26 am
21Yes,welcome back. I’ve really missed you and your very useful advice.
Your article on anti-blur methods is of great help for many people.
Take care of your health.
Carlos García
October 31st, 2007 at 8:03 am
22PENTAX DSLRs cameras have AUTO ISO, that´s another great solution, specially for amateurs because you can use. not only the programed usual settings like Av or Tv values, the camera too, selects proper ISO for the available light (200 to 3200 ISO in *istD Series, K100D, K110D, K100D Super and 100 to 1600 in K10D. If you notice that K100D, K100D Super and K10D, comes with shake reduction into their bodies and their price is lower than other brands, think.
Rob
October 31st, 2007 at 10:52 am
23Like the man said..Anti Blur” is related purely to the ISO setting and some cameras are better at handling high ISO/low light than others. Thats the reason I went for a Fuji camera. They are generally good value for money because they don’t do “anti shake”. It keeps the price of the product affordable when they know their ISO is usually usable up to 800 and higher.
I must admit “anti shake” is a great feature and ideal in alot of situations but you don’t need it in alot of cases if you learn to use the camera and refine your technique.
“Tip for macro sharpness”. Always use a tripod and 2 sec self time.
Tilt
October 31st, 2007 at 3:36 pm
24Been wondering where you’ve been.
Thanks for another great tip!!
Avijit
October 31st, 2007 at 4:28 pm
25Thank you David,
It’s a great input..
Hope you get over CFS quickly..
All the best.
venetia
October 31st, 2007 at 4:45 pm
26Thanks for the great tips , sorry about your illness , but keep going!!!!!
John Webb (UK)
October 31st, 2007 at 7:15 pm
27Hi David, Certainly missed your advise these last few weeks, but so sorry to hear you have not been well, a speedy recovery is wished for you and please take things easy for a while, your advice is not as important as your health. All the very best, John
manto
October 31st, 2007 at 7:26 pm
28Hi Mr.Peterson…we’re glad to have you back
wish you in good health
from Indonesian fans of yours
Kim
October 31st, 2007 at 8:54 pm
29Hi David,
Welcome back, glad to hear you are recovering well.
I have missed receiving your tips, I’m glad your back.
Some great tips for working out the ISO.
Many Thanx
Kim
Peter
October 31st, 2007 at 10:59 pm
30Hi, Mr David Peterson ,
I’m glad to have you back, I have missed receiving your tips, I wish you in
a very goods health
Thanks
Peter from Singapore.
DE
October 31st, 2007 at 11:00 pm
31I have had trouble with fugi cameras.It eats up bateries big time.Four photos and you are done.This happens with rechargables too.I also am having trouble with function keys not working when they are pushed .This camera is only 2 years old.I have talked to others with this brand and they are having the same problem.With theres they were able to send it in don’t know if it will last.
Kaj Monnerup
October 31st, 2007 at 11:04 pm
32Hi David, welcome back. I hope you will be fine soon. Thanks for an interesting and ionformative article about Antiu-Blur. A topic that I would be very interested in havung you cover is Anti-Shake. A lot of talk goes on in photo magazines about whether to include anti-shake in the camera or in the objective. Unfortunately, the discussions seem to be governed by subjective feeling rahter than objective facts. I would like an informed view on that the pros and cons of either are and what one should opt for. Many thanks, Kaj
Barry Zee
November 1st, 2007 at 12:11 am
33Thank you so much for your article.
I have all along thought that anti-blur is the same as anti-shake (Image stabilising in Canon and Vibration reduction in Nikon).
Philip
November 1st, 2007 at 12:28 am
34Hi David,
Firstly, I wish you a speedy recovery. I am 62, and have experienced quite a few health problems and can empathise with you.
Your latest write up on ‘anti-blur’ technology in cameras got me thinking.
I bought a Nikon 55-200mm lens with Vibration Reduction built in. I really have not seen much difference in the photos I’ve taken! Especially when I compared them to shots taken with my 18-135mm Nikor lens (no VR technology). I actually bought the 55-200mm lens because I had shaky hands. After reading your write up, I have a slight tinge of regret buying the VR lens. Anyway, what’s done is done.
Regards, Philip
glynn
November 1st, 2007 at 12:38 am
35tenkz! i learn a lot ^^
Althia
November 1st, 2007 at 12:43 am
36David welcome back. Thanks for the tips. Take care of your self
jnoelds
November 1st, 2007 at 1:06 am
37Hi David,
Thanks for coming back. Thanks for keeping me updated. I wish you good health always.
jnoelds
Darlene
November 1st, 2007 at 1:31 am
38I missed you as well! I have been battling with lupus for the last several years, so I completely understand how you feel.
After the first of the year, I plan on purchasing your book! I think all the tips you have been giving are fantastic, but I want so much more. I only started photography soley because of Ecommerce. I had to take better photos.
I recenty photographed a wedding for some friends, and I ran into the EXACT same problems you mentioned in this article. While I was on the right track in fiddling with the ISO, I wasn’t quite sure what I was doing was affecting my photos until I was able to get them out of my cam and view them on my comp. I also need to mention that I was working three different cameras at the same time, two of which I had never used before. Ny friends are not back from their honeymoon yet, or I would make the album with my cam’s pics available. As soon as I get their permission, I will make the album public at my photo sharing site listed above.
Keep up the good work!
sacheen
November 1st, 2007 at 4:58 am
39first of all i pray almighty god ,the positive force to completly take you out of all the troubles you had faced or presently facing. i am confident that you are going to achieve perfect health and happiness very soon.i am really excited to see your email to me.please continue to guide me .thanks.
jatmokohadi
November 1st, 2007 at 1:35 pm
40David. Thanks for the tips.
joan
November 1st, 2007 at 3:17 pm
41david sure have missed you happy to have you back stay in good health and thanks for all your tips
joan
November 1st, 2007 at 3:20 pm
42happy to have you back keep well
Terrence Jacobs
November 1st, 2007 at 5:13 pm
43Hi David,
Thanks for the latest hints, I thought that your hints had come to an end when I did not hear from you.
Sorry to hear that you were under the weather and hope that all will be fine very soon. As long as you keep a positive attitude all will be OK. I too had a setback 7 years ago when I was diagnosed with colon cancer but am fine now.
Regards,
Terrence
Michael Nsubuga
November 2nd, 2007 at 12:49 am
44Loads of good stuff from you refreshes our minds and cameras! Keep it up you’re a true photography lover.
Prashant A
November 2nd, 2007 at 1:37 am
45Hi David,
I felt good to see you back again. This article is really helpfull. I have Kodak V530 camera. And indoor shots are many times dark, so i will surely try out your solution to this problem.
You are great photographer!
Luis
November 2nd, 2007 at 4:16 am
46Hi David! I’m Glad your back ’cause you’re going better.Praise the Lord. God Thanks for sch great advice.
Ramesh Panicker
November 2nd, 2007 at 2:43 pm
47Thank you David, This is the best tip explained so nicely.
edwin
November 3rd, 2007 at 5:33 pm
48thank god you’re back I’m happy specially now that i upgrade my point and shoot to Canon EOS 30D i really need your tips and advice
Stiaan
November 4th, 2007 at 3:35 pm
49Good Advise, but I don’t think you can generalise that a shutter speed of 1/100th is fast enough. Maybe you should also mention that it depends on the focal lenth of the lens you’re using. if you use a 300mm lens, then 1/100th will be to slow and cause blur (you need at leaast 1/300th). Also if you use a 35mm lens then 1/50th is probably fast enough to avoid blur.
As soon as the camera select a shutter speed slower than your focal lenth, you have have to start adjusting the ISO or Apperture.
Great article though.
Dang
November 5th, 2007 at 12:41 am
50David,
what the hell happened to you? where have you been these days that i needed your tips? thanks for coming back i thought you’ve run out of tips on difgital photogrphy. wish you good health always.
parijat chandra
November 8th, 2007 at 3:28 am
51Nice job David!!
one more job for you ….. what abt face detection ?? need you feedback. as i am planning to buy fuji S9600 or S6500fd i need to know abt this face detection. Any sugession between these 2 models ?? all other are welcome for comment..
"Coop"
November 12th, 2007 at 2:50 pm
52David,
Good to have you back. Thanks to you and all your guidence, I have been able to take many wonderful shots of nature at it’s finest. I was forced into retirement after having a heart attack. I am doing fine now. Thanks again for all the great tips. May God Bless you, my friend. Wishing You Good Health.
Michael
November 30th, 2007 at 4:45 pm
53Its really good for every student of photography, that you are good and back now. We pray for your good health and fast recovery.
Michael
Tubig
December 2nd, 2007 at 1:45 am
54salamat David (means thanks David). You’re a Jedi-photographer.
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