Comments on: ISO Explained!

By: Shooting When the Lights Are Low: Part 2 | Gorge Photography

Shooting When the Lights Are Low: Part 2 | Gorge Photography — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 06:31:03 +0000

[...] ISO: Another key aspect of low light shooting is ISO. Each camera handles bumps in ISO differently. My Nikon D7000 does a pretty job up to ISO 1600. I try to avoid going this high whenever possible but sometimes you simply have to. Looking at the Nikon D4 high ISO performance makes me green with envy. Take the time to test your camera’s ISO performance so that you know what its limits are so that you can avoid having to spend hours in Photoshop trying to remove noise that didn’t need to be there in the first place. Whatever you do, do NOT crank the ISO all the way up. Your pictures might look alright on the back of your camera but they will be a mess and no amount of Photoshop will fix them in most cases. [...]

By: How To Use EXIF Information To Take Better Photos by Digital Photo Secrets

Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:49:28 +0000

[...] is a recording of the camera model used, aperture, shutter speed, focal length, and in some cases, ISO speed and GPS coordinates. As cameras continue to get better, more information is recorded in the EXIF [...]

By: Why so grainy??

Why so grainy?? — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 03:52:47 +0000

[...] how ISO works, that should help you choose the proper ISO setting for your particular project ISO Explained!byDigital Photo Secrets __________________ Please check out my Kickstarter Project: What a Trip… Getting Lost on [...]

By: The Sunny 16 Rule by Digital Photo Secrets

The Sunny 16 Rule by Digital Photo Secrets — Sun, 21 Aug 2011 07:53:41 +0000

[...] ISO speed is your camera’s sensitivity to light. A bigger ISO speed means a larger sensitivity. If your camera is more sensitive to light, it takes less light to make a picture more bright. Most cameras start out at an ISO speed of 100, and some models go as high as ISO 1600. That’s 16 times more sensitive than the default, meaning you’d need to expose the camera to 16 times less light in order to get the same picture. I talk more about ISO in ISO Explained. [...]

By: Greg

Greg — Sat, 11 Jun 2011 16:55:32 +0000

very good stuff, thanks for the help!

By: kreng

kreng — Fri, 14 May 2010 11:06:40 +0000

2 thumbs up! ^^

By: How To Take Photos of Fast Moving Sports Without Blurring The Subject by Digital Photo Secrets

Thu, 13 May 2010 10:57:54 +0000

[...] those of us who hate acronyms, ISO speed is a fancy word for the speed at which your camera’s image sensor reads light coming in from [...]

By: savio andrades

savio andrades — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:01:08 +0000

Hey,

I am being following your tips since 2004 – 05 and found it really helpful. Infact i am now giving tips to other aspirants! Thank you very much!

Savio Andrades
India

By: JRoberto

JRoberto — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 15:08:17 +0000

It is without doubt an interesting tip; it is very helpfull to work out nice shots right way from the camara by just balancing iso and speed. thanks!

By: Mike

Mike — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 03:31:31 +0000

Hello Krishnan,

I think you advice to hamid may be incorrect. First, the Speedlite 580ex is made by Canon. It may be more appropriate to reccomend a Nikon SB900.

Secondly, ISO 1600 on a D70? On a D700 OK, but for D70 there is a lot of noise at ISO800 and ISO1600 would be much worse.

I’d recommend, with a flash and tripod to take the following steps. (I’m assuming your subject is a person against a night time cityscape.
1/ Set the camera on a tripod
2/ Set aperture to f11 (this i agree :))
3/ use spot metering. Choose a spot on the background and adjust your shutter speed to that your exposure meter indicates that the background will be exposed properly. Recompose your shot (You can forget about the meter now)
4/have your flash on the camera. Personally I like manual mode. Set the power to 1/32 or 1/16 or so.
5/Take the photo. The background should be fine. If your subject is too dark, open your aperature more, like f8 or f5.6. If your subject is too bright, close the aperature more, like f11 or f16.

Keep in mind the distance between you (and your flash) to your subject. The farther way, the darker the subject will be…

Cheers!