Posted by David Peterson on 15 Jul 2008 as Hieroglyphics Demystified, Tips
Welcome to the first in a series where I explain what all the numbers and symbols mean on your camera.
It’s a problem almost as old as cameras. Manufacturers want to impart as much information as they can about an item, but they don’t have room on the product to place paragraphs of explaining information. So they invent a shorthand and while it helps them succinctly provide information, it doesn’t help us poor consumers who have to read it!
Today begins a series where I decipher the information on your camera so you know what each of those mysterious numbers and letters mean. Today I’ll start with camera lenses. I’ll discuss what’s printed on my SLR detachable lens – those of you with a Point and Shoot camera (with an inbuilt lens) won’t see all this information. However your lens will have most of these values printed in the user manual.
Let’s look at the markings on one of my older lenses – the Canon ES 75-300 lens.

Let’s start with the top and work our way down:

This gives almost all the information we need to know about the lens.
Easy enough. This is the manufacturer and type of lens.
This is the type of bracket this lens has to connect to the camera. EF stands for “Electro Focus” and tells us that this lens will fit on any camera using an EF bracket. This is most of the Canon SLR range.
Other manufacturers have different names for their brackets. Nikon has the F Mount, Pentax the K mount, and Sigma the AF mount. Lenses ‘talk’ to the camera through electronic contacts on the mount, and if the contacts don’t line up, the lens can’t auto-focus or change aperture on instructions from the camera. So when purchasing a lens, make sure the mount type matches your camera.

Taken with a telephoto lens
This is the focal length of the lens. While the millimeter number has a technical explanation, it basically tells us how far in or out the lens can zoom. P&S cameras use a ‘Zoom X’ rating that cannot be easily related to a mm number, and I will explain why next week!
Numbers in the 18-50mm range are classed as ‘Normal’ lenses and take photos that look similar to what you see with your eyes.
Lenses with a focal range above 50mm are classed as telephoto. These allow you to zoom in on the action. The higher the number, the further in your camera can zoom.
Numbers below 18 are classed as Wide Angle lenses. These show you more than a normal lens and are great for landscapes. Once you get smaller than about 16mm this is classed as a Fish Eye lens that produces the classical ‘looking out of a fish tank’ photo.

Taken with a fish eye lens
So with a 75-300mm range, this lens is a telephoto lens that can zoom in quite close. As it doesn’t handle 50mm I would not use this lens for landscape photos. Most lenses will be in the 18-70mm range allowing wide-angle landscape shots as well as the ability to zoom in if you need it.
This is the highest aperture of the lens. Aperture is used to control Depth of Field of the photo. So this lens can produce pictures with F4 (or F5.6 depending on how far the lens is zoomed in). With aperture, the number order is reversed so the higher the aperture, the smaller the number.
As a general guide, a lower number is better as it means you can not only take images with less ambient light in the room, but with a smaller Depth of Field. Note that the lower the number, the more expensive the lens will be!
This does not mean the lens can’t take photos with a larger aperture number (like F16 or F20) commonly used with landscape photos. The smaller number is usually more important to professionals, so that’s what they show us.
1:4 or 1:5.6 is a good maximum aperture to look for.
Now let’s look at the bottom of the lens.

The 75-300mm is the same number as above. What’s interesting here is the line beside the 75. This tells us the current focal point of the lens (75mm in this picture – fully zoomed out). If you zoom in with the lens, you will see the line moves towards the 300 number.
The flower image tells us the closest a subject can be from the lens and still be in focus. Other manufacturers use the word MACRO instead of a flower. This lens says 1.5m/4.9ft which isn’t too bad for a zoom lens, but the lens won’t be any good for macro work. Look for numbers smaller than 0.3m/1ft to do macro work.
USM stands for Ultrasonic Motor. This abbreviation depends on the manufacturer (Nikon uses SWM, Sony uses SSM and Sigma uses SDM) but means that the lens has a motor inside that can move the lens quickly to change focus. Lenses without USM move more slowly, or have no auto-focus capability
IS – Image Stabilization. This feature of your lens helps to reduce the effects of camera shake on your image – particularly when a lens is zoomed in. The lens features tiny sensors that can monitor any shake and move the lens a small amount to counter the shake – resulting in a sharper image. If you can afford one, purchase a lens with IS.
Next time, we’ll look at some of the hieroglyphs on your camera itself!
36 Responses
ELNA FERREIRA
July 16th, 2008 at 8:17 pm
1THANKS A MILLION FOR THESE TIPS. I WOULD LOVE TO BUY YOU BOOK. DO YOU KNOW IF IT IS AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRIC.
Peet van Niekerk
July 16th, 2008 at 10:06 pm
2This helps a lot to understand all the jargon on lenses!!!
Frederico Derschum
July 16th, 2008 at 11:23 pm
3Is there any diference for analogic and digital lenses/SLR cameras? Let me make it clear: a Nikon D40 with the standard 18-50mm, used at a focal lenght of 50 mm will have the same view as an old Nikon FM with a 50mm lens?
matthi
July 16th, 2008 at 11:29 pm
4For sure there is a difference. The Nikon D40, like any other “normal” digital SLR will have a factor about 1.4/1.5..so that means, that your 18mm will become something around 24 and your 50 something around 70mm, so that is not the same view…for sure, at some point, it will give you just the view of your old 50mm optic in the case it wasnt a typo and it wasnt a zoom.
Lu Schmidt
July 17th, 2008 at 12:55 am
5Amazing, I’ve been looking in the photo guide that comes with my book to figure out how close I can get with a lens and to find out what bracket is needed for the camera. Here it is, right on the lens. Thanks for the information.
Now I want to know what it means when a lens on a digital camera says it is a 7.5x zoom. I’m only familiar with it when it says it is a 28mm-210mm lens, for example. How do you figure out how that 7.5 converts to what you see in a film camera zoom written as mm.
YK
July 17th, 2008 at 1:44 am
6i think it’s fabulous that u have been emailing us all these fantastic tips.
the best thing is that u make it all very understandable for amateurs like us who know only a thing or 2 abt dslrs. ure wonderful!
John Ullis
July 17th, 2008 at 1:45 am
7What does 1:4 mean in 1:4-5.6? 5.6 is the largest aperture on the lens you used as an example. What about the 1:4
thanks
Lily
July 17th, 2008 at 1:53 am
8Thank you, David. What perfect timing…just as I had decided I needed a new lens!
Carleton Akana
July 17th, 2008 at 2:43 am
9Hi David, just bought me a Sigma 24-70mm lens which was said to be a good walk-around-lens your take on this item.
…………………………message ends………………………………………………
Fred
July 17th, 2008 at 8:03 am
10Good usefull info. If you can next time tell us how to capture the shots of race car with the blury back groud.
Thanks
jose luis samnchez
July 17th, 2008 at 8:10 am
11thank’s david for sending me the ebooks of yours,they are wonderful and i am enjoy them learning a lot and i hope that you will keep sending me e-mails like the one i recive this morning is excelent .you are a very good person and a great teacher
Morton Bodanis
July 17th, 2008 at 9:32 am
12I am accustomed to an SLR. In your discussions above, are you thinking in SLR or in Digital? 75-300mm in a digital camera is not the same as 75-300mm in an SLR. In a digital camera, the 300mm will give a longer zoom than in an SLR, and 75mm in a digital camera is not as wide (if it can be called wide) as in an SLR. Is there a fish-eye lens in a digital camera? I would be hard pressed to find a digital camera with a lens less than 18mm (about 27mm, at best, in and SLR). Though I appreciate your emails, I think that it is important to make your readers aware of the differences. If you intend your comments to refer to only digital cameras, then I think that you should adapt your comments to digital.
David Peterson
July 17th, 2008 at 9:44 am
13@Fred: I have a tip on Freezing the Action that you can use to create racecar shots with blurry backgrounds.
@John: The 1:4-5.6 means that BOTH 4 and 5.6 are the largest aperture on the lens. The largest aperture when zoomed out will be 4 and when zoomed in will be 5.6. It changes depending on the zoom level, so both are printed.
@Lu: The short answer is no, you cannot easily relate mm with X zoom factors. I’ll explain why in a full tip next week.
GTeo
July 17th, 2008 at 2:21 pm
14thank David…
Had never understood the 55mm -300mm..figures except how much zoom effect and closeup..the mm measure what does it refer to? is it how far extension for the lens from the focal plane of the camera or the manifying power of the lense? much appreciated.
GTeo
Jill Johnson
July 17th, 2008 at 3:48 pm
15Thank You soooooo much for this terrific information. It is all, such a huge help.
I am so grateful to be on your e-mail list.
Jim Speirs
July 17th, 2008 at 6:21 pm
16David, thanks for the very helpful information
willy schlosser
July 17th, 2008 at 9:57 pm
17Thank you for your informative lessons , much appreciated !!!
jannette del rio
July 18th, 2008 at 12:29 am
18very informative!!!thanks a lot!!!
Ernest Wheeler
July 18th, 2008 at 1:15 am
19Thanks again David for sharing your experience and understanding of the various aspects of photography. A good teacher always explains his subject matter step by step and does not overload his pupils with too much info. I had a calculus teacher in high who thought it was a good idea to just ramble on and did not take the time to break it down. While some students (the gifted ones) could flow with him, most were left behind because he did not take the time to bring them along. Thanks for taking your time and sharing over the years.
sminu
July 18th, 2008 at 4:04 am
20Very useful information.
Don Cleghorn
July 18th, 2008 at 6:32 am
21Thanks peter for the unfo on the 75-300 mm lens its the same as the one iv got now I know what the numbers are for thanks for all your infor.
don
Eugene
July 18th, 2008 at 9:43 am
22Thank you David, this is truly an education in digital photography.
John
July 18th, 2008 at 6:53 pm
23For the Benefit of Morton Bodanis, David’s web site is called Digital Photo Secrets, therein lies a clue as to what cameras David is referring to. BTW, Nikon make a DX (designed for digital format) lens of 10.5mm to give a full frame fish eye view.
rafael
July 19th, 2008 at 6:14 am
24Muchas Gracias..desde Argentina.
Dorothy
July 19th, 2008 at 6:59 pm
25Thank you for your digital Photo Secret’s they have been most helpfull.
Danny
July 20th, 2008 at 9:30 pm
26Very much appreciated. I was looking for a long time for this information and couldn’t find it, at least in a simple, understandable manner.
Nathan
July 21st, 2008 at 4:45 pm
27Hello David, have you ever tried light painting, or other forms of night photography?
marybeth
July 24th, 2008 at 6:48 am
28David, thank u so very much, i’ve learned more from you than in a B&W photography class I took. I’m only an amateur, but I love this stuff!! Thanks again!
Shahad
July 28th, 2008 at 9:45 pm
29Thank you, David for these good information.
SM-Riaz
July 30th, 2008 at 4:17 am
30Hi, David
Lot of thanks to you for your tips, I am a wedding photographer in Pakistan , six months before I have (Nikon F90x 28mm 105mm) it was stolen, now I purchase Nikon D70s (6.2 MP with 18mm to 70mm lense) and 2nd (Nikon D80 10.2MP 18mm to 135mm lense) and (Nikon SB-800 speedlight) I have some questions #1. when I take group picture it come right side nearest and left side far in photo Q#2. when I take Full lent picture it come some time correct and some time half upper body too big and legs thick, and some time upper body slim and legs very faty? before these cameras not that issues. Q#3. with white balance issues which white balance setting I use in these cameras in night asian wedding phototgraphy.
thanks
SM-Riaz
ever cor
August 6th, 2008 at 1:40 pm
31Wow! Many many Thanks David! I have been receiving emails from you and I really appreciate it a lot! I am an advance amateur photographer. I have been taking photos for more than 15 years already and have been changing cameras and lenses with my own savings. Actually Im not profit oriented and photography is not my profession. It’s just my main hobby and I am very passionate about it. Your tips are really great and very very helpful to me. More power to you David! Hope to hear from you soon. If you don’t mind, may I know where you live coz someday I might drop by your place. I may be in the Philippines and I know one day I will journey and do my travel photography. THanks again!
Amanda
August 24th, 2008 at 2:00 pm
32Thanks a billion for this! I just got an SLR a couple weeks ago and this really helps me understand more of what’s what.
Your tips are amazing!
obama disaster
May 6th, 2009 at 1:43 am
33Glad I found your blog. I’ve found a few good tips on your site. I’ll be a regular visitor from now!
Scrubs
May 27th, 2009 at 4:09 am
34It’s always good to find like-minded people. Thanx and I’m going to add you to my RSS feed.
lana
August 7th, 2009 at 12:49 am
35where do u find the sensor size on the lens
Dee
January 13th, 2010 at 8:15 pm
36I have found so much on here that has enlightened me to photography. Your tips are great especially for someone who has little experience in photography.
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