Ask David: The scourge of photography: Blurry Images :: Digital Photo Secrets

Ask David: The scourge of photography: Blurry Images

by David Peterson 6 comments

Has this happened to you? You pack up your camera and go to a football game. It's a great game, and you're sure you're capturing some fabulous images. You've got a perfect, clear view of the field, a good telephoto lens and shots of all the best moments. When you arrive home, you can't wait to see what you've got. You load the memory card up on your computer and you open up your photos in Photoshop and...

They're all blurry. Every single one of them. What happened?

Well, you've been visited by the photographer's scourge--blurry images. They happen to all of us, even experienced photographers. The reason is simple probability. You're not always going to be able to lock focus where you want it. Sometimes your subject is just moving too fast and erratically. Sometimes your autofocus system doesn't know what the subject is. And sometimes it's just because you made an error.
The truth is that you can't always avoid taking blurry photographs. But once you understand what causes them, you can dramatically reduce their numbers.

Last week I got a message from Dawn Sprowls, a reader who asked this very question: Why are these photographs blurry? Let's take a look at the examples she sent.

What happened?

The first clue about this particular image is that it isn't blurry from foreground to background. In fact, the background is actually quite sharp. What does this mean? Put simply, it means that Dawn's autofocus system locked on the background instead of on the subject, which produced a photo with crystal-clarity in all the wrong places. This is a common problem with autofocus, especially in this type of situation--where there is a lot of movement in the scene and your autofocus system may have some difficulty figuring out what your subject is.

How to fix it

Pre-focusing is one way to make sure that your camera knows where your subject is going to be, so that it will already have the correct focus when you make the exposure. In this case, Dawn could have focused on the ground (by pushing the shutter button half-way and then keeping it there) and then waited until the action arrived in that spot. Then, when she finally pushed the shutter button down all the way, she would have an image with perfect focus in exactly the right place. Unfortunately football isn't always that predictable, so another option is to use the focus/recompose method. To do this, place your subject in the center of the frame and press that shutter button down halfway, then move your camera so that your subject is in the position where you want him to appear in the shot. This works best when the action slows down, because you'll need some time to lock focus, then recompose and shoot.

If you're familiar with your camera's focus-points system, this is the perfect situation to use it because you'll avoid that focus/recompose step. Place your focus point in the part of the frame where you want to record the action, then place your subject under that focus point, focus, and make the exposure. Switching on continuous focus will also help (that's the setting that allows your autofocus system to make fine adjustments to the focus as your subject moves).

Here's the second example Dawn sent:

What happened?

Dawn shot this image at 1/200th of a second, which doesn't seem like a slow shutter speed--however for a football game, this is way too slow to capture all but the more idle moments. Football players move fast, so a fast shutter speed is required to freeze the action--otherwise you'll get motion blur, which is what happened in this image.

How to fix it

Sporting events really require a speed of 1/500th or more--however Dawn was a bit stuck in this situation because she was already shooting at a high ISO with a reasonably large aperture. Because this was a low light situation, a faster lens would have helped her get the shutter speed required to freeze the action.

It might be your first instinct to switch on a flash for this situation, but remember that you're probably not going to be close enough for the flash to have any effect on your image. And even if you are, flash photography at an event is a morally ambiguous thing. You may annoy other spectators, but more importantly, you may annoy the players. If you're running out of options, try metering for the brightest parts of the field--those directly under the floodlights, for example, and focus your camera there. Or, limit yourself to capturing the slower moments. If you don't have a fast lens, these may be your only options--either that, or miss photographing the game altogether.

Let's take a look at the third shot:

What happened?

See those streaks in the grass? Compare them to the way the ground looks in the other two images. That's motion blur, too, but it's the kind of motion blur you get from camera shake. We use the term "camera shake" to describe motion blur that is caused by an unsteady hand. That's not your fault--it's simply impossible for any human being to hold a camera completely still once you get to those slower shutter speeds. Camera shake is amplified by the length of your lens--long, telephoto lenses are particularly vulnerable to camera shake at slow shutter speeds because they magnify it. They are also heavier and more difficult to keep steady.

How to fix it

Camera shake can be corrected in the same way that motion blur is corrected--with a faster shutter speed. As a general rule, you want to use a shutter speed that is at least the same number as the length of your lens. 1/200th, for example, if you're using a 200mm lens. However you also have regular motion blur to consider, so that may not be enough--you'll still need to bump up your shutter speed to 1/500 for that football game.

That's why you often see sports photographers with tripods--sometimes it's the only way to keep the camera and a very long lens steady enough to prevent camera shake, especially when the light is fading and you're already shooting as fast as you can, at a high ISO. Keep in mind that the tripod doesn't prevent all kinds of motion blur, just camera shake. You may still get some trails off your players if you're shooting slower than 1/500.

Other causes of blurry photos: Depth of field

  • Canon EOS 30D
  • 100
  • f/1.4
  • 0.01 sec (1/100)
  • 50 mm

Hey you! by Flickr user rolleh

It's worth mentioning that other common cause of blurry photos--depth of field that is too shallow for your subject. You will commonly see this when shooting subjects that have a lot of dimension at very large apertures (vs. flatter subjects such as the graffiti art on a wall, for example). Shallow depth of field can be a good thing, but not when you end up losing focus on all or part of your subject. In this situation, you need to pay attention to your aperture (the larger the f-number, the more depth of field you'll have) and adjust it according to how much of your subject needs to be in focus. If you don't want to use the aperture setting, you can use a preset--landscape mode will give you large depth of field, while portrait mode will give you a shallower one.

Conclusion

Blur is a monster that threatens all of us photographers, but the good news is we can keep it at bay with a simple understanding of what causes it and how to avoid it. It's always a good idea to examine the EXIF data for images that went wrong as well as those that went right--do this enough and you'll have a pretty good feel for the blurry monster and how to banish it.

Most people think this post is Awesome. What do you think?

Comments

  1. suzan says:

    thanks again for the helpful tips. I too have had out of focus images. I also found that my focal point on my camera was off to the right so it was focusing on the wrong point. Had to go into my AF point selection and select the center point in manual setting or turn on automatic. Struggled with this for a while. This is where the manual is soooo important.

  2. Ray Abraham says:

    I have experienced similar problems to the photographer when taking photos of horse sports. Thankyou for the shutter speed tip. What is the best ISO setting for outside photos. I use a Cannon 60D and a 70-200 IS f2.8 lense.

  3. Simon says:

    Dear David, excellent article about why we get blurred photos. I recently upgraded from a Nikon D70S to a D7000 and my first batch of photos weren't good. Many were blurred but not way out of focus to the point that I thought I had bought a dud. Turns out that the only dud element was me and I am now much more aware of shutter speed, aperture and whether or not to use a tripod. Again, really great article.
    Best wishes
    Simon
    England

  4. Mahmood Cassim (South Africa) says:

    Hi David,

    Firstly, thank you for a most informative blog.

    My biggest bug-bear has always been action photography at a sporting event, especially under floodlights.

    The real pros are very reluctant to share information and their camera settings are a closely guarded secret.

    Each event is unique in more than one sense, so it is best to experiment as you go along, until you find what works best for you.

    Kind regards,

    Bhaai Cassim
    South Africa

    • Derick says:

      Hi David,

      Yes, agree with Bhaai from SA, Thanks for the informative blog!

      The Pro's will be reluctant to share, but some do, like Dave! ;)

      And you are quite right Bhaai, each event is unique, so... practice huh?

      I tried my hand at that one....not easy!

  5. Helen says:

    I use the action feature on my camera. You need enough memory cards and enough time afterward to search through all the photos. I am too slow to think about the correct settings when things are happening fast.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *