Tips for Purchasing a Digital Camera Lens
Your lens is an essential element to good photographs. It’s not just your camera. People spend thousands of dollars on a good camera and neglect the lens.
Change that around! Make sure you buy a good camera lens when purchasing a camera. Buy a good camera as well, but don’t neglect a good camera lens.
Why? Your camera is just the ‘holder’ for the photograph. The lens is what your camera sees all your shots through. A good lens is essential to clear and sharp photos.
With most compact digital cameras, you can’t change the lens. So in that case, don’t just buy a good camera, ensure it also has a good lens.
Avoid a plastic digital camera lens because it doesn’t have the clarity of a glass lens.
What model of lens?
Stick with camera lenses from well known manufacturers like Nikon, Canon and Pentax. Ensure you purchase a lens that works with your camera too. A Nikon camera lens usually won’t work well with a Canon camera.
There are specialty lens manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, Leica and Leupold. If you’re a beginner, don’t worry about these lenses until you are more advanced as they come with very high prices and it’s hard to justify the price for the small increase in quality.
Types of Camera Lens
The most common lenses are : Wide Angle, Normal and Telephoto. The type of lens is determined by the Focal Length of the lens. See below. A Zoom Lens is simply a lens that can change Focal Length from a Wide Angle to a Telephoto (or somewhere inbetween).
There are a number of things to look for when purchasing a camera lens.
Lens Focal Length
The Focal Length of a lens determines the amount of magnification and angle of vuew the lens can see. The Focal Length is measured in mm. It’s the Focal Length that determines if the lens is a:
- Wide Angle; small magnification, wide angle of view. 20mm to 35mm
- Traditional, or Normal; 50mm
- Telephoto; high magnification, narrow angle of view; 105mm to 300mm.
- Zoom; A Zoom lens can change it’s focal length to zoom in. A Zoom lens might have a Focal Length of between 50mm and 150mm.
Some lenses are interchangeable between film cameras and digital cameras, but you need to be aware that the effective focal length CHANGES between film and digital. The focal lengths I describe above are for FILM cameras and need to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the effective focal length on a digital camera. So using a film 35mm lens on a digital camera has an effective focal length of 56mm.
What does this mean for you? It means that you won’t get as wide angle on a digital camera as you would on a film camera using the same lens. A 35mm lens which gives a medium wide angle on a film camera acts as a traditional lens on a digital camera
This is a complex subject, so I can’t go into too much detail here. If you need more help, the best person to speak to would be your local camera store’s resident expert.
Lens Speed
The ’speed’ of a digital camera lens also defines a lens. The speed is determined in f-stops and is similar to the f-stop aperture setting on your camera. Faster lenses are more expensive and usually heavier.
Focusing Distance
This is the minimum distance from the camera lens that a subject must be to be in focus. Don’t worry about getting a camera with a close focusing distance. Concentrate on a telephoto instead.
More Advanced Features
More expensive lenses have more advanced features.
- Vibration Reduction. A feature called ‘vibration reduction’ keeps images sharper when shooting in low light. They help to counter any vibration in the camera. Try to find a digital camera lens with this feature.
- USM USM stands for Ultrasonic Motor. This feature of Canon lenses gives you a high speed auto focus but the main benefit is the ‘motor’ is almost silent, so you don’t disturb people around you when your camera is focussing.
- Filter Thread. When purchasing a half-decent lens, it should have a filter thread. This is a thread that allows you to screw on a filter (such as a polariser) to help when photographing difficult situations. Even if you don’t need filters right now. it’s handy to purchase a lens with a thread so you can add a filter later.
You get what you pay for
Generally the more expensive the lens, the better it is. More expensive lenses usually have a higher number of glass elements in the lens, which also makes them heavier.
Final Notes
While it is important to choose good quality camera lens, for beginners it isn’t as important as good composition. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking you can only take a great picture with an expensive top-of-the-line lens. A badly composed picture won’t look great with a great camera lens.
I don’t mean to discount the importance of a good quality lens. A good rule is to only add to your lens collection only when you have a specific need for a particular digital camera lens.
Do your research and your homework first, and find the lens that suits both you and your camera.
Learn amazing photography secrets that the gurus won't tell you with my "Digital Photography Secrets" book.
I have been putting your advise to practice in many occasions, and the results are terrific, of course I get many bad shots as well.
A friend asked me to take photos at her wedding in a couple of weeks and I am nervous as it is the first time I will take pics of that subject.
thank you for your tips and hints
September 25, 2006 @ 1:53 am
I’m a filomsaur with a half dozen Nikkor MF lenses looking for a DSLR body to use them with. Looking at all the specs it appears that I must pay for a Nikon D200, as the more affordable models (D50,70,70s,80) don’t appear to be able to meter through the MF lenses. Do you have any other ideas?
Here’s hoping your health is improving!
October 3, 2006 @ 1:10 am
I have been using your tips via e-mail and have your book as well. I have learned alot from just those 2 outputs. I think with more practice and better equipment, you will be hearing my name in the Photography world. I have been helping friends out with photographing parties and taking model pictures for friends for practice and alot of people are already noticing the difference. Again thanks and get well soon….1
October 5, 2006 @ 11:31 am
Hi David,
I’m interested buying your book. Your tips has been very important to me.
Just tell me what to do to order your book.
Thank you very much.
Bezerra
October 6, 2006 @ 8:02 am
Namaskaar David Guru
Your tips are wondrous !
You are covering even the ‘apparently’ minute details. But, those tips play miracles.
Although, I am in amateur photography since early ’80s, I still feel, I am a beginner.
Awaiting to meeting you some time somewhere,
Sincerely,
Suhaas
October 20, 2006 @ 2:08 am
The vast majority of your recommendations has been most helpful!
The one advice I can’t follow yet is roughly:
‘don’t bother about close focus lenses’!
I often like to shoot at insects, small flowers and the like.
Did I misunderstand your advice?
Ton Remkes
October 22, 2006 @ 12:12 pm
I’m receiving your since some weeks ! Thank you. Very helpful. You are coming always !
October 28, 2006 @ 10:41 pm
My photos are very much improved since starting this course and hopefully will improve much more with practice. I find your tips easier to understand than others and thank you very much for giving me this chance at no cost. I may be in a position to get your book in the future but for now your tips are excellent.
October 30, 2006 @ 10:45 pm
well, i have been into photography since long and i’d like to advise the amateurs to stay away frm lens hassles as the lens that a camera comes with is okie for basic photography .
As u grw up u can choose broadly amongst three lenses.
WIDE ANGLE LENS { for landscapes }
TELEPHOTO LENS { for potraits }
MACRO LENS { for close-up }
your original lens or fitted lens can work well as a zoom in lens .
also I’d recommend the use of good Dslr cameras if u want to buy these great lenses .
I use a Canon eos 1 and a Sony Alpha !
November 22, 2006 @ 4:52 pm
I really appreciate your hardwork put on spreading awareness about photography to people who needs those a lot, specially someone like me,who gained an ocean of knowledge about Photography that I never knew before. Thanks a lot again
November 25, 2006 @ 5:29 am
I was made to understand that the focal lenght ranges are the WIDE, and of course the NORMAL (lenses which are closest to the human eye’s coverage and with the least or no distortion); and the TELEPHOTO. Therefore, within these two extremes, there could be zoom lenses; e.g. WIDE ANGLE zoom (10mm-20mm,etc.) and TELEPHOTO zoom (70mm-300 etc.). The more compound or advance zoom lenses are those that traverse the two extreme focal lenght ranges, (24mm-120mm etc.) By the way, can someone enlighten me between a vari-focal and a zoom? The tips were amazing!
November 25, 2006 @ 12:41 pm
Hi,
I have a load of old MF Nikkor lenses as well. Bought me a D70 when it came out and find it uses the old AIS glass just fine. It’s got a fancy flashing dot in the viewfinder that lets me know when it’s in focus. The exposure is easy to figure out with the lcd screen on the back. Plus, since you grew up with the old MF stuff you probably get close with the exposure anyway.
I started buying the AF glass anyway. It works SO WELL with those new dslrs it’s hard to put down. The speed of the focus and the accuracy of the meter coupled with the brilliant mating of the nikon system speedlites is insane. It’s a whole ‘nother way of spending your hard earned money.
Biggles
December 28, 2006 @ 7:28 am
thanks on the advice on the lens .i just got my fisheye and it works great. but i still dont know what to use it for.and i got some filters too.
January 3, 2007 @ 9:41 am
This is one of the topics that I have been looking for to have a better understanding. Thank you.
January 6, 2007 @ 3:51 am
Thank you so much for all your tips. It’s great having info at your fingertips. My photos are looking better and better. Keep up the great work.
Regards
Zelda
January 12, 2007 @ 4:07 pm
I have been receiving your tips for a few weeks. I just received my Nikon D200 in the mail a couple of days ago. I can not wait to try all the tips you have been giving.
Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
January 25, 2007 @ 8:55 pm
Hi David .Read about the lenses .My only problem is dust on the sensor.Most of my photographs are land scapes & the dust becomes vary obvious when one looks at the sky. They charge a lot to clean the sensor. That is the only problem when one selects a slr with interchangable lenses. I possess canon 5 D. Lenses 100-300 canon 12-24 Sigma and EF 24-70 usm L. Any solution?
February 12, 2007 @ 6:38 pm
David, I seriously thank you for your valuable photography tips for someone who is just taking his first steps in the photography business like me ..
March 13, 2007 @ 12:12 am
hi im thinking of buying a 70-200mm with is or without is? image stabilizer? is it that worth it? or just go for without is? thanks a lot,
March 15, 2007 @ 7:09 pm
go with the image stabilizer!!!! you’ll love it. I had a dig without first and would get so upset at my pics so I ended up getting the canon S2 Is. I love it!!! I guess the S3 is good, but costs alot more, and your not getting really any more features. I bought mine online from digcam.com Love it!!!
March 30, 2007 @ 5:43 am
Thanks for all the great advice and tips I have used almost all with great success. My problem lies with learning the shutter speed and aperature appropriate for certain pics. The auto selection has become my standby.
April 3, 2007 @ 11:15 am
Thank you for your wonderful tips. I see Canon and Nikon a lot and have used them but my favorite has been Fujifilm. They have been most wonderful to me. I even dropped my S602V down a cliff and into a river and it still works as good as the day I bought it!
April 4, 2007 @ 1:24 pm
You don’t mention Sigma, Tamron or Tokina. Are they not viable alternatives to Canon, Nikon, etc. Granted their autofocus mechanisms are not as silent as Canon (my cameras are Canon), but they fill a void in the market place. Do you feel they are not worth consideration?
April 13, 2007 @ 9:53 pm
Robert is right those are also viable lens’ you can take into consideration. I’ve had great luck with my Sigma 28-80 f2.8 lens. One of my favorites in my bag. I’ve always told people..”a camera is just a box that lets light in” if you want good pictures spend your money on a lens.
April 17, 2007 @ 10:26 pm
Good tips all.
However, I believe your explanation of “lens speed” is a little lacking. Perhaps you should elaborate a little more on that. Like the lower the f-stop the “faster the lens.” Which interprets to being able to use your camera in available light at higher shutter speeds.
Tks
Brian
April 27, 2007 @ 2:08 pm
What about Tele-converters dont you think this is worth mentioning
April 30, 2007 @ 5:06 am
Thank you so much for all your tricks and helpfull hints. I don’t have a digital camera yet, but I am working on it. It’s kind of hard to give up my F5.
May 30, 2007 @ 1:03 pm
I’ve been a photographer for over 20+ years and still always on the lookout for good advice. I highly recommend your newsletter to beginners and the like.
I used to use Nikon, Mamiya (654/1000s) and Hassleblads, but now since switching to digital I find my Canon MarkII N (for studio) to be a real sweetheat and my just purchased Canon 30D for (travel work).
The lens I own are 24-70mm f/2.8, 70-200mm f/4, 100mm f/2 and 100mm f/2.8 macro all Canon and very sharp.
The other lens I own which is why I writing is to let your users know there are other manufacturers that produce some very nice and sharp lens (which back in the film and Nikon days I would not have purchased) is the Sigma range I have the 120-300mm f/2.8 DG and 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6
The part I was hoping you would cover is the how to work out what you really are getting if your camera has a 1.6x conversion and how can a photographer put this to use through the viewfinder. My biggest issue is seeing one thing through the lens and then seeing that I’ve missed some of the image in the viewfinder. This I know is due to the sensor not being full 35mm. Any tips on this?
Thanks
J
June 15, 2007 @ 4:28 pm
Thanks dude.. now i dont have any camera yet.. coz i got financial problem.. but i still enjoy reading ur newsletter, its help me prepare what to buy in the future.. thanks again..
June 18, 2007 @ 11:36 am
Hi David,
Thanks a lot for your helpful tips. Just a question. There are bunch of cheap “wide angle lens” not recognized by focal length but they screwed to the regular lens and they are much cheaper. What is the difference between these types of lenses and regular wide angle lenses (i.e. 10 mm focal length).
Thanks.
June 18, 2007 @ 1:17 pm
Hi Robert
It is a great pleasure to go through your informative tips on this wonderful art form called photography, I really reading and getting valuable information about taking better photographs as I am a Photography enthusiast. However, I do not own a camera yet but I am working on it.
Thank You
September 26, 2007 @ 8:03 pm
Just a little adjunct to everything else that as been written, to can still obtain contax zeiss (manual focus) prime lenses that with the help of an adapter (try ebay) fit on to any canon digital camera. In my opinion the best and sharpest lenses ever produced.
October 22, 2007 @ 1:18 am
Just a little adjunct to everything else that has been written, you can still obtain contax zeiss (manual focus) prime lenses that with the help of an adapter (try ebay) fit on to any canon digital camera. In my opinion the best and sharpest lenses ever produced.
October 22, 2007 @ 1:18 am
Thank you for all your tips, they have been very, very helpful.
I’ve been looking to upgrade to the Rebel XTi ( I have the Canon S5) Your advice about the lenses have helped me understand what lens I need, not what the sales guy said I should have
( he tried to sell me three lenses all standard ones — big money)
Again —
Thank you
(and my bank account thanks you too ) Cindy
November 17, 2007 @ 1:48 pm
Thanks again for this advise.
My main business is wedding photography. It is sad when the guests asks you what is your pixel size of your camera? When they have a camera which pixel size is more than mine.
I support it 100% to get lenses that suits your requirements. I often shoots corporate functions that is in “motion”. If any one think that the canon F2.8 or the F1.8 lenses are to expensive, think twice. I just cannot wait 5 seconds with a lenses that cannot focus quickly while doing motion photography “corporate shoots”
Another benefit for this aperture lenses are when your bridal couple is dancing - they often dim the lights and there your problems starts.
Thanks again for this secrets it just confirm that you need to spend your money on lenses and not so much in the early stages on your camera body.
Thanks
November 23, 2007 @ 4:18 am
Some minor correction:
1) Not all digital camera has a lens focal length mutiplication factor of 1.6; it starts with a full frame sensor with the same perspective as any 35mm film camera (1:1); follows by APS-H sensor with a lens factor of 1.3; follow by APS-C sensors with either 1.5 or 1.6 up to Point & Shoot camera sensor of 2.0.
2) Not all lens needs a filter thread to attach a filter, some uses bayonet mount instead.
3) Not all expensive or heavier lenses are better than the cheaper and lighter lenses.
A good example like the Canon own 50mm Standard lens. The 50mm f1.4 out perform the 50mm f1.2 at 1/3 the price and almost half as light. The difference of just a f0.2 is not going to make much difference anyway.
The up and coming Tamron 28-300mm VC lens is so much cheaper than the Canon 28-300mm L and so much shorter and lighter that you can hand hold without a tripod and yet produce nice and sharp pictures that I tested during the Image Exhibition over here recently.
4) Buy what you feel you need and test it before you buy is my advice. I personally experience paying a lot more for a junk lens even from a very well known manufacturer.
Hans
December 3, 2007 @ 6:49 pm
Thanks for the tip Mr. Hans Ko. I’m planning to buy a lens soon and I’m thinking about getting a Tamron. Is it really any good compared to a Canon lens?
December 6, 2007 @ 6:22 pm
Thanks for all the tips you’re giving me…they are very helpful….I’m really aspiring to be a real Photographer and maybe study a little Journalism…if successful….i will owe you a lot…as i cannot really afford at the moment to buy Photography books…..Thanks again!!!!,,,More Power to you !
December 10, 2007 @ 2:52 pm
Rein,
Yes, Tamron lenses have a great name. However for most situations (and unless you’re a professional photographer) you probably won’t notice the difference between a Tamron and good quality Canon lens.
David.
December 11, 2007 @ 7:49 am
Thanks for the interview on Wedding Photog. It was GREAT..especially the parts about lighting. I have a hard time understanding the principles of lighting so I was thrilled when you asked Gary to explain about the “light on the short side of the face” and why…could use more info like this!!Thanks..Brenda
January 5, 2008 @ 12:53 pm
What about Zuiko lenses?
January 14, 2008 @ 1:02 am
Thanks for your details David.. I’ved plan to get some lens.. and your information help me alot. Thank you.
January 17, 2008 @ 1:04 pm
I have enjoyed your tips, particularly interviews, as I am not a good reader but a better listener. I always wondered why there is a school of photography when cameras do almost everything these days. Now there is some light. I am also using Canon EOS 30D and would like to break into the photography business, but I do not know how. My biggest problem is marketing. People are just reluctant taking pictures and the interest is also drying up.
I am also doing a bit of videography. Any tips on that?
Your tips are great!!
A.S Rakgalakane.
South Africa.
+27827851656
February 4, 2008 @ 5:04 pm
I am thinking of buying the Canon 75mm IS lens because I want something wide angle. What do you think? I have the Canon 40D and already have the 300mmIS lens.
February 14, 2008 @ 9:35 pm
Hi, thanks for Your comments.
Lense converter.
Is it the lens or adapter between the camera original lense and another attached lens?
Is it possible to use full range zoom of digicam (say Canon A570IS) when the lens converter applied?
Frankly
Peter Maczuga
February 21, 2008 @ 10:34 am
hi!
you know sir its a big help that you gave us some techniques and i really appreciated that i hope your not tired of giving us info bouut photography… godbless and more power..
March 13, 2008 @ 6:09 pm
Great information on lens and their differances. By the way, a Vibration Reduction is fantastic in any lighting condition…
March 25, 2008 @ 2:55 pm
it is nice, can u give more details about lence?
April 30, 2008 @ 11:30 pm
Hey david
Thanks for the great tips. I’m branching out of my kit lens (18-55mm) and want to move into something good for portraits. One of the comments i read was that a telephoto lens is good for portraits. I have tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6. I generally i find it hard to click photographs with this lens. Any tips on how i could use the lens more effectively or should i trade it in for a another lens? Please help.
Happy photography to u too!
Gitanjali
June 10, 2008 @ 6:12 am
Am pleased with this lesson.Thanks for all the assistance.
June 14, 2008 @ 11:51 pm
Dear David, Thank you very much for all the tips and tricks.
Regards
Salim Ahmad
July 12, 2008 @ 1:15 am
David, I equate you to a generous photography educator.
My special thanks to you.
I am getting more confident with photography with each tips I accquired from reading the tips you shared with us.
August 4, 2008 @ 1:26 am
Most of your comments seem to be so basic that they are hardly useful to any serious photographer. Most of the info are incomplete or rather too generic. take and example of 1.6 factor of focal length. Its valid only for nikon. You haven’t explained that. This can confuse readers. Please try to improve.
August 18, 2008 @ 11:17 pm
Sorry, in the last post I intended to say Canon instead of Nikon.
August 18, 2008 @ 11:18 pm